Cafe Society

McDonald's new CBO sandwiches are too saucy and salty -- but load up on holiday pies

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I hit the drive-thru at the McDoo at 300 South Broadway to try the new sandwiches, but I also had a poorly-hidden agenda for this trip: to order at least six holiday pies so I'd get fresh ones, and could hog myself on their warm, custard-crammed goodness while they are available. Because just like the annual McRib give-and-snatch torture that is perpetrated upon me, the holiday pies are only offered from around October to around January every year, and I overcompensate by gorging myself in the sickest way imaginable when they're available.

That'll show 'em.

The CBO Angus burger came in the paper box, neatly diapered with white paper, and like the other Angus burgers on the menu it was bigger than the quarter pounders I usually get. It smelled appealing -- garlicky and bacony -- and the first bite was hot, meaty, juicy and saucy....really saucy.

My second and third bites produced gobs of sauce, squishing up my palate, and I took the top bun off and scraped away as much as I could, but the bun, cheese, grilled onions and beef patty were marinated in the stuff. The three strips of bacon between the patty and bottom bun were safe and dry, but I couldn't taste anything but sauce. The sauce itself wasn't bad; it seemed to be a garlic-parmesan-tasting, mayo-based concoction, but it was incredibly salty to the point that it burned my mouth and dulled my taste buds. This burger would be far better with about a third of the sauce -- which is weird, because usually I have to shed tears to get McDonald's employees to part with condiments. The chicken CBOs came in grilled and fried, and McD's uses the same chicken patties for these as it does for the classic chicken sandwiches, so nothing new to see here. The sauce-gobbery was the same on both sandwiches, so I picked a few onions out and wiped the sauce off -- they were caramelized and tasty, but lost in the sauce along with the bacon, which was basically unnecessary on any of the sandwiches because they were sauce-murdered as well. Even the normally crispy fried chicken patty breading was rendered soft and gummy from so much sauce.
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Jenn Wohletz
Contact: Jenn Wohletz