Zaidy's Deli 15th and Lawrence streets (and a location in Cherry Creek) 303-893-3600
Potato Latke Sandwich Brisket between two latkes, with pickles and a side $9.95
Tis the season, and by "the season," I of course mean Hanukah, or Chanukah.
And to celebrate, I figured I'd have some traditional brisket and potato latkes -- which have about as much to do with the Maccabees and an eight-day miracle as Christmas lights do with Jesus Christ's birth and a manger.
But since this is a blog about sandwiches, I decided to try the brisket and latke sandwich from Zaidy's Deli.
I've had brisket and latkes dozens of times over my long, long life, but I'd never had it as a sandwich until 2004ish when I tried a version at Sherman's Deli in Palm Springs. It was incredible, juicy thick-cut beef on two ginormous, oniony, greasy, salty latkes, served with sides of apple sauce and sour cream. One of the best meals I'd ever had.
Zaidy's. Not so much.
What I got in my takeout box was a pile of thinly sliced, overcooked brisket slopped between two large, but wafer-thin and mostly flavorless latkes. I'm sorry, but you've got to do better than that. It's not that hard.
Slow-cook the brisket, for crying out loud! And put some freakin' salt on the latkes or onions or something. I got a plastic cup full of gravy, but pouring it on added no moisture to the beef and soaked the latkes.
I got some brief help by spooning a side of coleslaw into the mixture, but it didn't do much to save this unhappy Chanukah surprise. If the Maccabees had had to eat this every day for eight days, they surely would have surrendered to the invading Syrians. - Jonathan Shikes
To read about previous sandwiches, go to the Our Weekly Bread archive.
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