"I dress like a clown, I play with food, fire and sharp knives, and they pay me. Does it get any more fun than that?" asks Jeremy Roosa. The executive chef of Oak Tavern, a LoDo watering hole that serves sandwiches, salads and gourmet baked potatoes the size of Boise, is tricked out in a black chef's coat, darker than a cold heart, with blue piping, warning me to watch my head as we descend the stairs into his squat kitchen. "It's completely nuts in here when we're really busy," says Roosa.