Cafe Society

Oceanaire A Cool Breeze

Like me, you could just say fuck it and eat the pound of bacon guilt-free, figuring there’s also a chance that you’ll get hit by a bus out in front of the new Oceanaire Seafood Room and, if you do, you’ll at least die with a sated smile of your face and a belly full of bacon steak. Cholesterol and high blood pressure are killers, no doubt. But so is a tour bus shipping in a bunch of blue-hairs to see Spamalot and jumping a stale yellow at forty miles an hour. Pick your poison. Make your choice.

I, obviously, have made mine. And someday, when I eventually do go down, I can only hope it is with a pound of bacon in me and a blissed-out grin on my mug, regretting nothing and giving the finger to all the world’s cardiologists.

This week I review Oceanaire – the ultra-luxe fish house that opened a few months back and gave unto Denver the joys of the bacon steak. Also, the place does some nice fish and assorted sea critters. Come back Wednesday for all the yummy, yummy details.

If fish isn’t your thing, I also sink my teeth into some of Ted’s buffalo at Ted’s Montana Grill, make fun of Tom Colicchio and Padma Lakshmi from Top Chef and report on sad news from Sean Yontz and Jamey Fader. And remember: With the first Diamondbacks/Rockies game set for this Thursday, you’ll be able to get reservations at just about any restaurant in the city, so plan ahead. Let the baseball fans have their sports bars; I think I’ll be down at Fruition eating cake. – Jason Sheehan

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Sean Cronin