The sandwich: 'Atsa Turkey Meatball What's on it: Sage and cranberry turkey meatballs, melted provolone and marinara sauce on a roll. Where to get it: Larimer Hot House (2810 Larimer Street, 303-292-3008) How much: $7 for the sandwich; $10 for a meal deal
A couple of years ago, I started my quest for the perfect meatball recipe. The idea was to make a meatball that was as good as what I'd eaten at any number of Italian joints in any number of cities across the United States.
My quest was short-lived, however. After the second recipe left me with dried-out meatballs over-filled with fennel, I gave up. The meatball seems so easy, so simple, but it is not, and I envy and admire anyone who can make a good meatball.
The Larimer Hot House makes a good meatball. It's not a typical meatball, that's for sure. Stuffed with small cranberries and sage, it's a turkey meatball that won't be to everyone's liking because it's far from traditional.
But the meatballs that filled my sandwich were big and juicy and stayed together -- three requirements of a good meatball in my book. And they had tons of flavor that more than stood up both melted provolone and a side of marinara sauce.
In the weeks since it opened, the Hot House has become famous in the neighborhood for its $3, one-pound breakfast burritos, but it also has a super sandwich menu with seven unusual creations, as well as a couple of hearty soups.
The sandwiches run $7, but for $10, you can get some awesome homemade potato chips (in three flavors), a pickle, a drink and a Rice Krispyish treat made from a cereal that isn't Rice Krispies. And the cool tables and smiling service are free.
I may never find the perfect meatball recipe, but I'm glad I was tipped to the Larimer Hot House.
For previous sandwiches, see the Our Weekly Bread archive.
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.