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Our Weekly Bread: Marczyk Fine Foods

The sandwich: Market Roast Beef What's on it: Niman Ranch roast beef, horseradish sauce, cheddar and arugula on rye Where to get it: Marczyk Fine Foods (770 East 17th Avenue, 303-894-9499) How much: $6.99

I love markets. They're often expensive, but browsing through their awesome, gourmet stuff is part of the fun. Central Denver is blessed with several good markets, including the seven-year-old Marczyk's, the venerable Spinelli's, Fisher Clark, Parisi, Summerhill and now the brand-spanking new Tony's, right across the street from Westword.

Aside from groceries, many of these markets also feature sandwich counters. But the menu at Marczyk seemed rather limited, so I went with the Market Roast Beef, in part because roast beef is typically much better at markets than at sandwich shops (especially when the market roasts it on site -- and uses Niman beef, as Marcyzk's does), but also because I liked the sound of horseradish sauce. It's the perfect condiment for roast beef.

And indeed, the roast beef was great -- but that's where it ended. The cheddar was almost tasteless, the arugula boring and the rye bread bland. As for the horseradish sauce, it looked like a dime-sized drop had been smeared on the bread, but I couldn't taste it.

At $6.99, this sandwich was expensive for one I could have made at home -- and if I'd made it at home, it would have tasted a lot better because I would have loaded up on the horseradish sauce.

Anyway, I'm happy to have markets like Marczyk's in the 'hood - especially if there's a supermarket strike - but next time, I'll buy the ingredients at Marczyk's and make the sandwich myself.

For previous sandwiches, see the Our Weekly Bread archive.

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