Eating Adventures

Our Weekly Bread: Mr. Lucky's Pizza Sub

The sandwich: Lucky's Pizza Sub

What's on it: Ham, pepperoni, provolone and parmesan, marinara, green peppers, black olives on a toasted roll

Where to get it: Mr. Lucky's Sandwiches (711 East Sixth Avenue, 303-861-5825) How much: $6.95

A pizza sub is a rare find, and I have been looking online at menus for a while, trying to locate a Denver version. But sadly, the only way to truly find something new is to actually get out from behind the computer and do some legwork -- which is how I found this pizza sub in the unlikeliest place: Mr. Lucky's on Sixth Avenue.

I say unlikely because Mr. Lucky's is right under my nose; I drive by it every single day, sometimes two or three times. The tiny shop is nestled into one of those strips that goes by so fast, even at only thirty miles per hour, that you can't read all the signs; it shares a retail row with Don's Mixed Drinks, a cigar store and some other businesses.

This find was also unlikely because I hadn't planned a return to Mr. Lucky's after having a sad and mostly flavorless meatball sandwich there about eight years ago.

But I'm glad I rolled the dice a second time, because Lucky's Pizza Sub satisfied all the basic elements of what a pizza sub should have and more. I only wish there were different versions of it -- with more toppings -- so I could truly give my arteries a run for their money.

Start with a toasted sub roll, then add pepperoni, marinara sauce and cheese (in this case, provolone). Now you have the basics. But Mr. Lucky's took it another step with parmesan cheese, black olives and green peppers, making for a gooey, pizza-like meal. And ham added an interesting, unexpected brick to this pizza house, providing a nice base from which to make the leap from slice to sub.

Somehow, the sandwich managed to stay together -- with enough cheese to act as the glue, but not so much marinara that it dissolved into a sloppy mess. This is not an easy trick, and it's one that takes more than luck.

For more sandwiches, see the Our Weekly Bread archive.

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Jonathan Shikes is a Denver native who writes about business and beer for Westword.
Contact: Jonathan Shikes