The weather has turned cold, and there's an icy bite in the air snapping at us, taunting us with the promise of the impending winter.

While I don't love steeling myself against the cold, I am happy that it's soup season again -- especially because that means it's a good time to suck down a bowl of pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup hawked from a growing number of shops all over town.

Since moving back to Denver, I've searched for the best renditions of the dish I once ate multiple times a week in Vietnamese neighborhoods in other cities. And as a chill settled over the Mile High City last month, it became paramount that I find a suitable spot to satiate my roaring craving.

So I headed over to Pho Duy, 945 South Federal Boulevard, a two-decades old mini-mall spot and one of the original Denver pho palaces.

In Pho Duy's basic, perpetually crowded digs, I ate my way through bowl after bowl of steaming hot beef broth replete with rice noodles and various cuts of cow, enriched with a bushel of herbs and vegetables and made spicy with plenty of Sriracha sauce.

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