Word of Mouth

Pho Duy provides cold weather comfort

The weather has turned cold, and there's an icy bite in the air snapping at us, taunting us with the promise of the impending winter.

While I don't love steeling myself against the cold, I am happy that it's soup season again -- especially because that means it's a good time to suck down a bowl of pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup hawked from a growing number of shops all over town.

Since moving back to Denver, I've searched for the best renditions of the dish I once ate multiple times a week in Vietnamese neighborhoods in other cities. And as a chill settled over the Mile High City last month, it became paramount that I find a suitable spot to satiate my roaring craving.

So I headed over to Pho Duy, 945 South Federal Boulevard, a two-decades old mini-mall spot and one of the original Denver pho palaces.

In Pho Duy's basic, perpetually crowded digs, I ate my way through bowl after bowl of steaming hot beef broth replete with rice noodles and various cuts of cow, enriched with a bushel of herbs and vegetables and made spicy with plenty of Sriracha sauce.

Did it hit the spot? Or fall short? Find out tomorrow when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk