Cafe Society

Pizzeria Locale Adds Two Pizzas, a New Salad Mix -- and Soon a Second Denver Spot

Change is afoot at Pizzeria Locale, the fast-casual version of the Boulder pizzeria that debuted in Denver last year. In just two weeks, on October 5 a second store will open its doors on West 32nd Avenue in Highland -- which is good news to Neapolitan pie and budino lovers, and not such good news to those already suffering from the neighborhood's parking woes. Meanwhile, the original Denver outpost at 550 Broadway has been making some changes to its menu. See also: Behind the scenes at Pizzeria Locale This month it added two pies to its lineup: the mozzarella-free Calabria, with Calabrian chile peppers, garlic and ricotta; and the Diavola, a longtime Boulder favorite with smoked mozzarella, pepperoni, basil and chile oil. "When I lived in Naples, [the Diavola] was the one I always had to eat because I loved it so much," says culinary director Jordan Wallace "A lot of people have asked for it."

Apparently a lot of people have also asked for salads to be made with something other than arugula, and the kitchen has responded by changing the salad base to mixed greens. While I applaud Wallace for listening to customers, I miss the peppery green, which held its ground under the opinionated toppings on my favorite salad, the tuna. Somehow, romaine seems too sweet for the company of green olives, chickpeas, capers and lemon.

Wallace says the mix might change again -- but not, unfortunately, back to arugula. Since the potent green remains on the menu for the pizzas, however, Wallace advises that arugula fans can always request an all-arugula salad.

And that request will be honored at both the Broadway and Highland locations.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz