The Denver restaurant scene is getting so crowded that restaurants are starting to open up inside of restaurants. Yesterday, a pop-up breakfast eatery called a.m.BS debuted inside To the Wind Bistro at 3333 East Colfax Avenue, with plans to continue regular Sunday morning service from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. starting April 19. The concept takes its name not only from the abbreviation for "breakfast sandwiches," a specialty there, but also coincidentally matches the initials of Jared Brant and Todd Somma, the two who were executing the the recipes.
The breakfast pop-up concept came from Brant and his sister Caitlin, who works in the front of the house at Uncle; Somma is helping get the project underway — he's currently a chef at Uncle and says he will be in the kitchen at Bar Uncle once the offshoot of Tommy Lee's piping-hot LoHi noodle house opens later this spring in RiNo. Brant works at the Populist and Crema Coffee House and will be on the opening team at Bar Fausto, another RiNo joint with an anticipated opening this spring.
The a.m.BS menu is brief, comprising four egg sandwiches served on rolls from the Black Sheep Bakery (which currently operates out of Crema's kitchen) and one breakfast burger. The eggs are fluffy, scrambled and baked rectangles that receive a crisping finish on the griddle, a layer of cheese and a variety of other ingredients like foraged mushrooms from Hunt & Gather (a local wholesaler that sources produce from foragers in several states), porchetta roasted with breakfast sausage spices, Tender Belly bacon, avocado and jalapeño chimichurri.
Somma and Brant are friends and former colleagues of Royce Oliveira, who runs To the Wind with his wife, Leanne Adamson. Oliveira offered his kitchen after learning about the pop-up idea. Brant says the Easter morning pop-up was a test run and that they'll take a week off to finalize the menu before offering sandwiches every Sunday morning.
In addition to sandwiches (which run from $5 to $9), a.m.BS will also offer Pablo's coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice, mimosas and Bloody Marys.
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Correction: A previous version of this story indicated that Somma was a partner in the breakfast pop-up. He was actually just helping Jared and Caitlin Brant for the initial opening.