4

Presentation matters at Squeaky Bean

^
Keep Westword Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

Children aren't known for discerning palates, but even little tykes know that presentation matters. A kid might hardly touch a snack of celery, cream cheese and raisins, only to happily munch those same ingredients if the raisins become ants marching on a slippery green log. Like crafty parents, chefs understand that we first eat with our eyes, which is why they spend so much time bubbling wine into foam, curling cucumbers into ribbons, and stacking grit fries into Lincoln Log-style structures.

After all my meals at the new Squeaky Bean, I wouldn't be surprised if executive chef Max MacKissock loved ants on a log as a kid.

See also: - Chef and Tell with Max MacKissock of Squeaky Bean - An exclusive first look at the new Squeaky Bean - Semple Brown Design creates restaurants that look good enough to eat...at

MacKissock has been with Squeaky Bean from the start, but when the restaurant left its Highland home in summer 2011 in favor of this new, much larger spot in LoDo that opened in June,he finally got a real kitchen.

Under his direction, that kitchen is turning out plate after plate of whimsical food that tastes as good as it looks -- or should I say, looks as good as it tastes.

With so many artful dishes, I grew curious about which one is the hardest to plate. Turns out, it's an appetizer called "eggplant & plum," with greens and herbs perched on a roasted Japanese eggplant. Aside from the challenge of getting the greens to stay on the eggplant, the dish "needs to be layered in the proper manner," MacKissock says. Otherwise, "you could be eating a handful of herbs or bok choy."

Find out what I thought of the rest of Squeaky Bean's food - both in terms of taste and presentation - when the review is posted here tomorrow.


Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.