This week, Gretchen Kurtz reviews Fire
, the restaurant in the Art hotel that opened this summer with relatively little fanfare. But maybe that's good, because her meals there were uneven; chef Chris Jakubiec needs to light a fire under his crew if this place is going to last, she concludes. Responds John:
The opening of the Art hotel and Fire was the biggest dining and hospitality story in Denver this year. The fact that it wasn't to you highlights your ignorance. Fire is the biggest news to the big hitters downtown.
The fact is the Westword likes to cover the hipster restaurant scene. Places like Acorn where the patrons dress in pajamas and homeless people bathe in the bathroom. The fine dining scene is not in your realm, maybe you should work on that.
Fire generated zero buzz , and for good reason — there was way more emphasis put on decor than execution on food and service. Restaurants that are receiving plenty of attention (nationally as well as locally) such as Acorn are doing so because they are putting food first. I hope Fire makes it and figures out how to round out the dining experience. However, if you're more interested in how sexy the dining room you're eating in is than the food you're paying good money for, then there are a handful of spots in town to satisfy your shallow needs. But you better hurry, because they won't last with the standout spots in Denver that have their priorities straight.
I visited once this summer. Aside from a tone-deaf menu, the price point is way out of line for Denver. An $18 burger? That won't generate much repeat business from locals.
Have you been to Fire? If so, would you go back?