Would legendary New York Times critic Craig Claiborne have approved of Gretchen Kurtz reviewing So Perfect Eats? "If the granddaddy of restaurant criticism didn't think restaurants had to have tablecloths, a maître d' and a mixologist to be considered fair game," she writes, "then neither do I."
Still, she's come in for some criticism for reviewing two deli/sandwich spots during her first three months on the job -- even though one, Red Star Deli in LoDo, was opened by star chef James Mazzio, and the second, So Perfect Eats, is in a very different part of town, with a very different chef in charge. See also: - A closer look at So Perfect Eats - So Perfect Eats is the perfect place to take a break from shopping-The meat-centric Red Star Deli is a rising star
But others applaud her adherence to Claiborne's ideals.Says Michael564:
Way to go, Gretchen. But be wary of grabbing the coattails of the God of Reviews. If you really want to follow in Mr. Claiborne's footsteps, then be prepared to write at least 2 reviews per week --- and venture out of your comfort zone! One of the beautiful aspects of Mr. Claiborne's style was that he travelled all over NYC, reviewing both the known and unknown -- and searching to discover the nugget of 'what will be next' in terms of both quality and culture! He is almost solely responsible for Manhattanites taking the subway into the depths of the outer boroughs to experience international cuisine on a home-cooked, personal level. So get out of Cheesy Creek and venture far and wide around Denver. Kick over rocks and tell us where to find the best spots for pad thai, be bim bop, chicken tikka, kitfo, etc. Just avoid the green chile and breakfast burrito recommendations, we've got them coming out of our "ears."
What spots would you like Gretchen Kurtz to review? Post your suggestions below.
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.