Reader: Will Frank Bonanno's BBQ beat "mediocre at best on a drunk night"?

Keep Westword Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

Frank Bonanno is about to expand his empire, adding Russell's Smokehouse to the vast underground area in Larimer Square where Green Russell is already located.

"I'm not doing traditional barbecue, or Texas barbecue, or Kansas City barbecue, or St. Louis-style barbecue," he tells Lori Midson. "I'm doing barbecue my way -- casual and fun and making use of a lot of rubs rather than sauces, and while there's a lot of good barbecue around here, it's mostly served on paper plates with wet wipes, and I want to do something nicer and little more high-end than that -- a sit-down place with a bar, real plates and napkins."

In a town starved for good barbecue, what kind Bonanno will be cooking matters less than how good it is. Consider this from Barfly 2:

Nobody yet does a kick ass job with BBQ! Sorry to say, most of it is mediocre at best on a drunk night. I look at BBQ like a sushi joint, it can never be slow and most always run out of everything daily. It just doesn't hold, especially here with the dry weather. It will be interesting to see if the skills are there to pull it off.

But Jeff is more optimistic:

If these means I can get that Green Russell fried chicken all the time, I'm in.

Join the Russell's Smokehouse conversation already under way here.

Or for more on barbecue in Denver, see our list of the "Five best BBQ joints in Denver."

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.


Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.