Review preview: Carbone's Italian Sausage Deli

Northwest Denver may be turning over, swallowing up the old Italian institutions that once held down just about every corner of the 'hood, but there are still a few old places where you can find a taste of what this particular part of our city once held. One is Carbone's...

By Laura Shunk

June 14, 2011

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Northwest Denver may be turning over, swallowing up the old Italian institutions that once held down just about every corner of the 'hood, but there are still a few old places where you can find a taste of what this particular part of our city once held. One is Carbone's Italian Sausage Deli.

Rosa Lonardo and her husband, Nick, have owned this tiny, standing room-only shop on West 38th Avenue for 37 years, where -- in addition to vending Italian imports that included noodles, cannoli shells and canned tomatoes -- they serve up homemade sausages and meatballs and a variety of imported cold cuts on baguettes to the regulars who wait in very long lines for these sandwiches.

I ate my way through most of what the deli offers for this week's review, and got a side of Rosa's philosophy, too.

How were the subs? Find out tomorrow when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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