It was early when we arrived at Bistro Barbès, a French-inspired 32-seater that opened this spring in the former home of Pary's on 28th (and, before that, Satchel's Market). Still, it would be another hour before guests outnumbered the good folks manning the stove and delivering our food. With so few voices to join our own and so little for servers to do other than watch and wait for us to need more bread, water or clean utensils, my friend and I felt a bit like we were on display. But our self-consciousness came to an end the moment we received our summer-pea agnolotti.
See also: Behind the Scenes at Bistro Barbés