^
Keep Westword Free
4

Second Helping

Although fast-casual Mex is all the rage today -- and with good reason, in the case of Tin Star -- there was a time not long ago when Denver was inundated with white-tablecloth Mexican joints. But they were still years behind Las Brisas, which opened in 1987 and has real linens on the table that are really white. It also has giant swordfish on the walls, and those high-backed white-wicker chairs that make anyone who sits in one feel like some sur de la frontera gringo ranch owner out on the screen porch overseeing the herd. The food is a combination of uppity Mexican standards (tacos, burritos and enchiladas) glamorized by fancy sauces, coastal resort food (mahi mahi in ginger-mango sauce, tortilla-crusted salmon and trout in shrimp bisque -- but no swordfish), and a little abuelita-style Tex-Mex that was so impressive I was able to forget the Tex part and concentrate on the Mex. Las Brisas does tableside guacamole (and was at it long before all those other joints), excellent carnitas, flat enchilada pies served in stoneware dishes, and chimichangas that are so bad for you they're like swallowing a cholesterol hand grenade, but so good that you don't care. And all of this is served in an environment that -- though slightly dated and starting to wear around the edges -- is comfortable, inviting, and friendly as all get-out. One caution: Despite its age, Las Brisas still packs 'em in during prime time, which can sometimes stress the service. So don't expect fast food when you come here, but be willing to wait a little while for the good stuff.

I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.