Ceviche...fresh chips and chipotle salsa...empanadas and arepas con something-or-other with goat cheese...fried plantains, thick-cut and buttery, crisp at the edges and gooey in the middle. Plantains are hard to do even moderately well, and these were the best fried plantains I've had in Denver. Since I eat fried plantains everywhere I can, that's really saying something.

Yes, I'm heading sur dela frontera this week with a review of Red Tango in Wheat Ridge, and the tale of one epic meal that very nearly ended with me exploding in the parking lot. For full details, grab the March 15 issue or return to this spot. -- Jason Sheehan

• Cafe Society