Cafe Society

Shelter from the Storm

There are some restaurants where the world does not intrude -- rooms where time does not pass, weather does not change, current events go unnoted. Often inadvertently, these restaurants have successfully stopped time -- a trick that mad scientists and evil super-geniuses have been attempting since forever with dark matter and black holes and atomic-energy-mo-trons, but that here is accomplished with nothing more than an old-school egg roll and a total disregard for advances in the field of interior decorating.

Attempting to escape the blizzards and the holidays -- and to get some shrimp pho -- I went to Pho Saigon in Centennial, and discovered that it is one of those rare places where time stands still. But the kitchen does not, and even with the highways shut down, my shrimp pho was delivered. For the rest of the story, see my complete review in this week's Westword, which hits the streets and this web site later today.

As for dining in 2007, so pho, so good. -- Jason Sheehan

KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Patricia Calhoun co-founded Westword in 1977; she’s been the editor ever since. She’s a regular on the weekly CPT12 roundtable Colorado Inside Out, played a real journalist in John Sayles’s Silver City, once interviewed President Bill Clinton while wearing flip-flops, and has been honored with numerous national awards for her columns and feature-writing.
Contact: Patricia Calhoun