That was the start of Jason Sheehan's review of The Kitchen penned back in 2004. He didn't like the restaurant much more than he did Boulder, and last month, when he asked readers to suggest a place for his last Westword review, several recommended the Kitchen - none more eloquently than John Broening, exec chef of Duo and Olivea.
In a largely laudatory goodbye to Sheehan, Broening offered this: "I think your trashing of the Kitchen was unforgivable: The Kitchen has single-handedly changed the restaurant scene on the Front Range, and to dwell on what seemed to you like their sanctimoniousness was to miss the point completely."
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Sheehan didn't get back to the Kitchen, though; instead, he went with Ondo's, which he reviewed in our January 7 issue. So while we continue to search for Sheehan's replacement, we dispatched Juliet Wittman, a Boulder resident who's written about food as well as theater (and just about everything else during her years at Westword) to take a fresh look at the Kitchen; read her assessment here tomorrow.