Salmon BLT Salmon, bacon, lettuce, tomato, dill aioli on rye. $8.99
Smoked Turkey Smoked turkey, dill havarti cheese, red onions, cucumbers, lettuce, tomato and ranch dressing on whole grain bread. $8.49
Once you get past tuna salad and the McDonald’s Filet-O-fish (or Burger King’s similar Whaler), it’s hard to put fish in a sandwich. Sure, there’s lox and eggs on a bagel, and shrimp poboys in Louisiana, but I don’t think the world is ready for trout ‘n’ Swiss on rye or mackerel panini. But that doesn’t keep restaurants from trying.
Part of the problem is that fish is finicky and doesn’t hold up well structurally. The most common kind of fish I see on sandwich menus is salmon, followed by ahi. But both can be more fishy than fresh-tasting, and that was the case with the valiant Salmon B.L.T. at Cook’s Fresh Market, an upscale market downtown.
I had forgotten about this place at the corner of Glenarm Street and the Sixteenth Street Mall until a friend who works nearby asked if I wanted to check it out. I was skeptical – not of Cook’s, but of my friend. This was the same guy who, twenty years ago in college, had forced me to eat rigatoni sandwiches, pickle pizza, vegetarian Whoppers and Kraft Mac N’ Cheese with added broccoli and peas.
Still, he’d also introduced me to pesto and giant burritos. Anyway, we ordered the Salmon BLT and a very good, straightforward smoked turkey sandwich – with avocados. The smoked turkey was bursting at the seams with fresh ingredients, and the flavors of havarti and ranch meshed well.
The salmon BLT could have been good -- the bacon was a nice crunchy addition to a soft sandwich, and the dill aioli tasted fine -- but the salmon didn’t quite cut it.
For now, I think the world is safe from Reubens made with sea bass. – Jonathan Shikes
For previous sandwiches, check out the Our Weekly Bread archive.
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.