Cafe Society

Southern breakfasts take center stage at Sassafras American Eatery, now open in Jefferson Park

Pizzerias, a chef recently groused, are swarming the city like Miller moths. To the contrary, breakfast joints, he lamented, have been regulated to the back burner, slipping into the abyss like paying for porn.

But Julia Grother, who just opened Sassafras American Eatery last week in an historic Victorian at 2637 West 26th Avenue, an address that housed the original La Loma, and since then, more restaurants than we can count, is bringing breakfast -- specifically southern breakfasts -- to the forefront, and I can only wish that she'll open more, ideally on my block.

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Lori Midson
Contact: Lori Midson