Word of Mouth

Tarbell's has a new menu -- and a new inexpensive wine list to pair it with

Months ago, when I reviewed Tarbell's, 6955 South York Street, the restaurant featured a menu split between vintage and modern, pitting classic American comfort food against flashier, more inventive dishes. It was a whimsical way to organize the list, but it was also confusing.

Recently, Tarbell's rectified that when it rolled out some changes.

The eatery eliminated some dishes (like the oddly named omega-3 pasta), added seasonal plates and organized everything under more recognizable headings -- like main plates and specials.

"Fall was a good time to take a close look at the menu," a manager told us the last time we were in. "We wanted to streamline our options."

Thankfully, our favorite dishes -- the American Classic burger, the macaroni and cheese, the kale salad -- remain. And the blend of comfort food and contemporary American cooking still comes through, even if it's not categorically called out.

Plus, any remorse we might have experienced over those changes was easily washed down by a new economical drinking option: The restaurant is now featuring a wine list that comprises thirteen bottles, all priced under $30.

For more information, dial 303-703-8100.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk