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No restaurant or deli, that is, but the Bagel Deli, whose no-frills egg salad is the benchmark for perfection and un-messed-with-ness, an avatar of rightness. Egg salad was my first meal at the Bagel Deli all those years ago. And doubtless, egg salad will someday be my last meal from there — remembered at the last minute as I am on my way elsewhere, recalled just before it's too late.