Cafe Society

The Centro of Colorado Cuisine

Like beer, like ice cream, like truffles, the pig is proof on the hoof -- evidence that the food gods love us and want us to be happy. And the masa cake on the menu at Centro is proof (to me, anyway) that not only is Dave Query in league with them, but is the beneficiary of long, intimate and frequent conversations with those little deities that oversee the day-to-day ops of the restaurant industry and bring luck to their favored disciples.

This week I review Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace -- the newest joint from Dave Query and, possibly, the closest that anyone has yet come to touching on what is truly a Colorado cuisine.

Don’t believe me? Well, that’s just fine because I’ve also got Mayor Hickenlooper in Bite Me this week, talking about Query. I’ve got bacon steaks (yeah, you read right: steaks made of bacon) and fried oysters, news from Duy Pham and a very early and well-deserved Second Helping on Aqua that may now hold the record for fastest bad-restaurant-turn-around ever.

It’s a good week, kids. Check it out here on Wednesday. -- Jason Sheehan

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Sean Cronin