Cafe Society

The Den Farm -- and a new greenhouse -- gets ready to sprout

Owning a farm, says Yasu Kizaki, was always a dream for him and his brother, Toshi, the owners of two Japanese restaurants on South Pearl Street: Sushi Den and Izakaya Den. "Our parents were farmers," Yasu recounts. "It's been a vision for a long time, but it's hard work."

Dreams became reality last year, when the siblings bought a farm in Brighton where hoped to produce vegetables to supplement their imported fish. To help, they called on Nobi Sakai, a sushi chef turned farmer, and Howard Ochsner, a former Coors beer-tester who'd managed the Den Farm property under its previous owners.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk