The List: A fish for every taste

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With this week's review of Mikuni and a visit to the new Hapa Sushi in Greenwood Village, I figure that rookie fish-eaters are taken care of.  But what about those of us who want more than fake crab wrapped in rice or deep-fried shrimp in mayonnaise sauce?  What about those pros who are looking for the best of the best of the ocean's critters?

I've got you covered, too. Below, a list of seaworthy spots for every taste out there--from the pedestrian to the sublime--and the sushi bars where they are best handled. It's far from canonical, but if you're out this weekend looking for fresh baby tuna or the reproductive machinery of the humble sea urchin, these half-dozen options will do you right.


Sushi Den, 1487 South Pearl Street. Simply the best there is in the city of Denver, arguably the best there is outside of New York and L.A. Sushi Den is not cheap and the waits can be extreme during peak hours, but if you're a freak for the fish, it is totally worth it.

Sushi Sasa, 2401 15th Street. Sushi Den does the best traditional sushi and sashimi in town. Sushi Sasa? It does the best of the nouvelle, mixed with the traditional, mixed again with chef Wayne Conwell's odd sense of culinary humor.  If you have the time and the money, definitely go for the omakase menu.

Osaka Sushi, 3940 East Exposition Avenue.  Why does Osaka make this list?  Because it's friendly and fresh and fast and the kind of place I actually want to go when I'm looking for nothing more than a quick hit of tuna, eel or masago.

Sushi Katsuya, 2222 South Havana Street. The friendliest sushi bar in town, with some of the best tea, best miso and best handrolls around.

Domo, 1365 Osage Street. Because it's not enough that Denver already has one of the best sushi restaurants in America.  Because it's not even enough that we have two.  Because Denver is so cool, we also have a place that specializes only in the cuisine of mountainous northern Japan and highly authentic peasant chirashi: Domo.

Sushi Tazu, 300 Fillmore Street. The bar at Sushi Tazu served me the best uni I've ever had. Or ever hope to.

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