Peking Tokyo, which I reviewed this week, was a weird little joint, no doubt. The name was strange, the space bizarre. And yet, it was an excellent neighborhood player and the kind of place one might well thank the food gods for should one find one's self in the area and hard up for spring rolls, spaghetti and egg foo young all at the same time.
It is with that in mind, that I have assembled this week's list. All of these are places which -- due to neighborhood pressures, shifting demographics or just endemic oddness -- have become havens for those, like me, who can simply never get enough of a good thing.
1) Cowbobas (2991 West Evans Avenue). A combination Vietnamese boba tea shop and Mexi-American steakhouse where nothing on the menu costs more than twelve bucks. This place is so fascinating that even Eric Ripert once asked me about it and made me promise to take him there if he ever came out to Denver.
2) Zengo (1610 Little Raven Street). I have never been a huge fan of Richard Sandoval's restaurants, but this place is the exception. High-end Latino-Asian fusion with a nightclub feel.
3) Go Fish (1 Broadway). Not fusion, exactly, but not exactly not fusion either. Call it modern Asian-American, with a sushi bar.
4) Uoki (701 East 6th Avenue). Yeah, I'm going to keep pimping this place because I just love it. Korean-Japanese food right in the heart of 6th Avenue's restaurant row.
5) Jonesy's EatBar (400 East 20th). Mussels, game sausage, Thai beef salad and green onion gnocchi. Owner Leigh Jones has always been about borderless comfort food, and Jonesy's is just the latest incarnation of her obsession.
6) Izakaya Den (1518 South Pearl Street). An izakaya-style Japanese bar menu conceived for an American audience by one of the most rigorous Japanese traditionalists in the city. The result? Fantastic sashimi, bizarre little Asian tapas, high-end Euro-influenced bar snacks and waffles all together on the same menu.
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