To the Wind Bistro Is So Small It Can't Mess Up Big

Bigger isn't always better, which is why Mizuna-alum Royce Oliveira chose a 628-square-foot location on East Colfax Avenue for the home of To the Wind Bistro, the restaurant he opened last spring with his wife and pastry chef Leanne Adamson. "We were looking for something small," he explains. "That way if I mess up, I mess up small rather than mess up big." See also: First look at To the Wind Bistro, now open on Colfax The downside to such an intimate space is that he and Adamson are always on duty. But the benefit is that "the two of us are responsible for the food," he says. "Nothing is going out that we're not happy with."

Guests at this Mediterranean-style bistro might find another downside: a wait. With only nineteen seats, including four at the chef's counter, the place has a tendency to fill early. Find out if the food is worth waiting for when my review of To the Wind Bistro is posted here tomorrow.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz