Tocabe tingles my tastebuds

I just finished eating my oversized fry-bread thingy at Tocabe: An American Eatery and was definitely pleased with my meal. I'd written about Tocabe, the Native American, Chipotle-esque establishment yesterday, and was eager to try the place when it opened officially today.

Owner Ben Jacobs told me that despite the bad weather, there had been a steady stream of customers. He also said that during his soft opening last night, he sold all 425 fry-breads he had made. Not a shabby start, but also not surprising, considering the quality of his food. My oversized fry-bread was piled high with shredded beef, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, cheddar cheese, sour cream and spicy green chile. A side of ancho chile sauce completed a creation fit for the Native American gods (damn, I wish I could name one). 

My friend and I contemplated whether we were supposed to fold our fry-bread in half like a taco, just stick our face in and begin inhaling, or take the all-ironic route of burrito-izing it before eating. I went with the logical knife-and-fork decision, and was blown away with the crispy yet tender fry-bread, the sweet spicy ancho sauce and spiced, tender beef. It was close to Chipotle, but very, very different. Tocabe could well be next on the list of very successful quick-casual places coming out of Denver.-- Tyler Nemkov       

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