Eating Adventures

Triple header: The three newest restaurants on Federal Boulevard

In A Federal Case, I'll be eating my way up Federal Boulevard - south to north - within Denver city limits. I'll be skipping the national chains and per-scoop Chinese joints, but otherwise I'll report from every vinyl booth, walk-up window and bar stool where food is served. Here's the report on this week's stop...

Last week I ate at the northernmost restaurant on Federal Boulevard within Denver city limits, thus completing my stated mission of eating my way from south to north at every restaurant on the street. New restaurants opened in my wake, though, and as I glanced at their signs in my rearview mirror I realized it wouldn't feel right unless I went back and covered those, too. Plus, I was still hungry. So, like the snake eating its tail, I circled back to the beginning -- the less-than-auspicious moment where I couldn't even get a burrito at the long-gone Bubba Chinos at 3000 South Federal. The newest member of the neighborhood club, Boost Burger, has taken the place of the garish and graffitied green chile garage with a cool blue color scheme and a gearhead theme to attract a new customer base. This, along with the now popular Lotus Vegetarian Restaurant and the up-and-coming Pho Market, would punctuate the final sentence in my year-and-half-long West Side story.

See also:
The twelve days of Christmas on Federal Boulevard

Boost Burger opened just a couple of weeks ago, but has been building a lunch crowd due to its proximity to Colorado Heights University and a nearby warehouse district teeming with hard-working and hungry mechanics, contractors and tile salesmen. Boost is definitely not trying to grab a share of the trendy fancy-pants burger market, but instead offers a slightly more original and appealing alternative to the fast-food giants. The menu board is a bit confusing at first, with almost all items given automotive monikers. The printed menus on the counter offer clarification: The Low Rider is a Juarez-style burger topped with a ham slice and a laterally bisected hot dog, milkshakes are labeled Synthetic Blends, and chili cheese fries are called, unintuitively, Racing Stripes. The burgers themselves are organized by patty quantity, with four being the upper limit listed (although those desperate for a fifth might be able to strike a bargain). I ordered a single, which came on a soft, eggy bun with a smear of house sauce of the ketchup-mayo-relish variety. The chili cheese fries were deep golden, crunchy and topped with a mild red chili over a creamy cheese sauce. With so few burgers available outside of the national chains on Federal, Boost adds variety to this southern stretch dominated by Mexican fare. Keep reading for the next stop on Federal Boulevard.

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Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.
Contact: Mark Antonation

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