Cafe Society

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? It's impossible to tell in this perfect dish

You're an educated group, Denver diners. You eat out a lot, and keep us on our toes with suggestions of places to eat and thoughts on what you liked and why. So as I share the twelve dishes that stood out from the hundreds -- and hundreds and hundreds! -- of others I've eaten this year (keep in mind that some of these are no longer on offer, given the pace at which menus change), I invite you do the same, sending us your own lists of the foods that captivated you most. In the meantime, here's the first of a dozen dishes I highlight in my review this week, to whet your appetite: See also: Our critic's picks for the best dishes of 2013

Crispy farm egg, chicken confit and wild-mushroom toast: Like the Americano that helps me face the morning, I could eat Oak at Fourteenth's kale salad and tomato-braised meatballs day in and day out and never grow bored. But it's another dish, one too rich for everyday occasions, that won my heart and a spot on this list: crispy farm egg, chicken confit and wild-mushroom toast. All components -- panko-coated egg with a perfectly cooked yolk that pops and coats everything with liquid gold; chicken confit; and mushroom-laden buttered toast -- are delicious on their own, but together they're exquisite.

Maybe we should start a letter-writing campaign to bring it from Boulder to Acorn, Oak's sister restaurant that opened this fall in the Source.

Hungry for more? Read my complete list of the twelve best dishes of 2013 here.

That said, I think there's great food to be had here. Some of the best beer in the world, as well. But if you're looking for "local regional fare," forget it here.Bah humbug! What do you think of our local regional fare? And what is Colorado-style to you?


KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz

Latest Stories