Don't be fooled by the name: There's much more than just biryani at this Tech Center restaurant. Guests are greeted by a powerful blast of spices as they enter, foretelling good things that await inside the pumpkin-and-gray dining room. That room is crowded (especially on weekends): Families with chubby toddlers and mothers wearing jewel-toned saris, groups of young men talking and gesturing wildly, servers who are always on the move, a constant stream of customers picking up takeout orders and couples who seem docile in comparison to the hubbub around them. They come for the classic rice dish, of course (our favorite of the dozen varieties on offer is the delectably mild ulavacharu goat biryani), but the menu boasts plenty of other options, some familiar to Western diners (dal, veggie korma, chicken tikka) and some less so (vada, idly, dosa). All are delicious and served with a smile, making any visit to Bawarchi satisfying to body and soul.