No matter how gloomy the weather might be, Cafe Byblos has walls the color of sky and sunshine, with blue mosaic tiles that glint like light dancing on waves. The service is equally cheerful at this Mediterranean spot. And just a look at the menu -- full of creamy dips and pita, seven-spice blends, marinated meats and lemon-spiked sauces -- puts you on a plane to a place far away, a land of sandals and shorts. Your first stop: hummus, silky smooth, with just a whisper of lemon and garlic. Other destination dishes include the kibbi aras -- akin to fried, stuffed meatballs, with a lamb-walnut filling and a shell of cracked wheat and lamb -- and the ever-popular lamb, beef and chicken kabobs.