Why did the chicken cross the road? Specifically, how did La Polleria -- a no-frills Peruvian eatery devoted to roast chicken – cross over the Denver city limits in favor of a location in the southern suburbs? That spot just happened to be handy in 2011, when Bob and Rosario Van Diest decided to open their own polleria in Centennial. Given its bright lights, few tables and order-at-the-counter setup, you might think that La Polleria is a link in a fast-food chain, similar to the others in the surrounding strip mall, but it’s not. The Van Diests operate an independent spot, where authentic pollo a la brasa is the specialty, made in an imposing six-spit brick oven imported from Peru. Rosario is a native of Peru, where this rotisserie chicken dish goes hand in hand (or wing in wing) with aji, mild and hot dipping sauces -- made here from canary-yellow aji amarillo peppers (mild) or a mix of local chiles and imported aji rocoto peppers (hot). The pulled-chicken sandwiches, wraps and burritos also offered at La Polleria aren’t as authentic, but that shouldn’t stop you from trying them.