Radek Cerny, the man behind legendary hot spots Papillon Cafe and Radex, has returned with French-inspired L'Atelier. The place is almost ludicrous in its excesses, with giant plates, fawning service, bright, spartan decor, and a nine-course tasting menu. But what saves it from going totally over the edge is the firm hand with which Cerny controls his kitchen. Everything here is about high-concept, high-end, and high-quality food.