Le Grand Bistro & Oyster Bar

Robert Thompson opened Le Grand in mid-2011, taking over a big, historic spot downtown that most recently had held Baur's. And with this restaurant, he resurrected some more recent history: that of his first major restaurant effort in town, the still-revered Brasserie Rouge, which was located in the IceHouse. Like the board at Brasserie Rouge, Le Grand's menu focuses on classic French fare, perfectly prepared by Sergio Romero, the chef Thompson brought over when he closed Argyll in Cherry Creek. The setup does a good job of capturing the flavor of a bistro, too, capitalizing on the white mosaic floors and dark woods of the space, illuminated by glowing, 1920s-era chandeliers. Other decor touches are more subtle, but notable for their good taste: "Les Halles" scrawled in cursive above a private dining room; a line of Perrier bottles along one wall that create a glittering green contrast without being ostentatious. Good space partitioning and cleverly draped red velvet curtains lend an air of intimacy to most tables. But the best place to sit is definitely at the gorgeous bar.