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Soban

Soban is an offshoot of an acclaimed Los Angeles restaurant, noted for its seafood and praised by critic Jonathan Gold for its raw crab. Raw crab was on the Aurora menu when the restaurant opened last year, but it seems to have rolled off sometime in the interim, perhaps because it was priced at $35. Instead, peruse the seafood stew section, where you'll spy spicy codfish, monkfish, fish egg and pollack. Whatever you choose will come bubbling in a clay pot; spoon it over rice for the best effect. Speaking of rice, you'll inevitably be asked whether you want white rice or brown, and in this case, you should go with the latter: brown here is japkok, a traditional mix of different rices and beans. Supplement with a little grilled cuttlefish or mackerel. By the way, seafood-averse eaters shouldn't skip this place: The kitchen turns out solid barbecue standards alongside the fish.

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