Denver Restaurant Week: Duo

Denver Restaurant Week, Day 2. A report by Amy Haimerl:

I have a new culinary love. Not fois grae, not sweetbreads, not chili-infused chocolate or any of the other delicacies I've had the good fortune of trying while dining with Jason Sheehan and my other foodie friends. No, this is something more simple, more pure -- proletariat,even. Celery root puree.

From the moment I took a bite of Duo's slow-cooked pork with celery root puree and broccoli rabe, I knew I'd be back often. I'm one of those people who gets a taste for something and then eats only that for meals on end. I've gone through my pork-fried rice from Min Min phase, and my green chile from Tacos Jalisco phase, and even a chicken Peshwari from the British Bulldog phase.

Now it's a celery root puree from Duo phase. Imagine the most perfect plate of mashed potatoes and then multiply its perfection by ten. Hell, increase its perfection by a power of twenty. It's that good. Same texture, yet smoother and lighter. Same taste, yet slightly sweeter. Same ideal foundation for heavy dishes like the pulled pork, but without the heaviness and carb overload. I'll be hitting the trusty Food and Wine website looking for recipes to perfect this delicacy for myself.

The asparagus soup with saffron cr�me fraiche and green olive tapenade, also served as part of the Denver Restaurant Week menu, were also palate-pleasers. And while I loved my pulled pork, my partner actually preferred his escolar. That's sacrilege on the alter of the celery root puree, I say.

And I'm ready to worship. -- Amy Haimerl

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Amy Haimerl