As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up, in no particular order, a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Number 34: Beef cheeks from the Squeaky Bean
You've hoofed your way through the pig platter, contemplated holding chef Max Mackissock hostage because he refuses to part with his chicken liver mousse recipe and shimmied while unapologetically inhaling the shake-n-bake sweetbreads. But it's Mackissock's beef cheeks that are the silent sleeper on Squeaky Bean's bang-up board of seasonally-inspired dishes, all of which are cooked and comprised in a stubbornly diminutive kitchen that's roughly the size of a pig's snout. The beef cheeks, long-braised, cloaked in a deep and rich veal stock, and crowned with fennel and chiffonade of spinach, collapse at the swipe of a fork; their cohort, a roasted potato, hollowed out and puddled with a creamy fonduta bolstered by bacon and chives, elevates the proletarian tuber to rock spud status.
Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:
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