The intersection of South Federal Boulevard and West Evans Avenue is only a few blocks from my house, so I drive past Cowbobas Steakhouse and Boba Smoothies nearly every day — often wondering how much longer everyone's favorite Vietnamese steakhouse can survive. So last night when I saw a cherry picker taking down the sign over the little strip-mall eatery, I assumed the worst — that one of Denver's oddest restaurants was closing up shop after a ten-year run.
But a sign on the door proved my fears to be unfounded. Turns out that Cowbobas has taken a little giddy-up left and is hightailing it for the greener pastures of 940 South Federal, in the same shopping center that houses Tacos y Salsas. It also was the home of DaLat Vietnamese Cuisine, but a quick drive north revealed that Cowbobas won't be joining DaLat (which only last year added "Vietnamese Steakhouse" to its name); it will be replacing it.
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This is quite an upgrade for Cowbobas: Not only is the space larger and recently renovated, but it comes with a liquor license. The strip is also well known as a destination for Vietnamese cuisine, which could be a boon — even if the eatery's menu skews considerably more Western. In fact, other than those boba smoothies, the closest thing to Asian fare at Cowbobas are the crab-cheese wonton appetizers. But perhaps a larger kitchen will mean a menu expansion beyond steaks and burgers.
Not so fortunate are fans of DaLat's beautifully executed and traditional Vietnamese offerings. Cowbobas is expected to reopen tonight after its clandestine overnight move.