During weekends at Jelly, prepare for a jam

When Christina Smith and Josh Epps prepared to open Jelly in Capitol Hill earlier this year, they were banking on the fact that Denverites were craving a more vibrant breakfast culture, and that those people would be drawn to restaurants offering the prospect of more than just the greasy spoon...

By Laura Shunk

December 13, 2011

Audio By Carbonatix

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When Christina Smith and Josh Epps prepared to open Jelly in Capitol Hill earlier this year, they were banking on the fact that Denverites were craving a more vibrant breakfast culture, and that those people would be drawn to restaurants offering the prospect of more than just the greasy spoon diner classics.

Judging by the crowds that immediately flocked to the place, the co-owners were right. Waits on the weekend can stretch for an hour, as Capitol Hill denizens pack themselves into the front alcove of the restaurant and sip hangover cures like red beer while they wait for tables to open up.

For this week's review, I fought the jam and ate through a menu of creatively rearranged eggs Benedict, French toast, donut bites and biscuits and gravy, and I sampled a number of morning drinks, too.

How was the food? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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