Feast of the seven fishes at Oceanaire

Italians know how to do a lot of things right. They make sexy cars, damn good wine and great cheeses. Most important, they know how to celebrate Christmas Eve. On the night referred to as "the vigil" or La Vigilia, Italian-American families gorge themselves on seven-course seafood feasts. It's typically an event celebrated on the east coast and has its roots in Roman Catholicism -- but you don't have to be Catholic, or even Italian, to appreciate the virtues of this tradition. And now, you don't even have to live in Little Italy to participate.

That's because Oceanaire Seafood Room, 1400 Arapahoe Street, is bringing the party to Denver. Per tradition, you can choose seven dishes from the menu for $55 a head, excluding tax and gratuity. Diners can pick from grilled oysters, steamed mussels, whole rainbow trout, Tombo tuna -- and a whole lot more.

The menu is offered through Christmas Eve; for more information, call 303-991-2277.

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