Food News

First Look: Zeppelin Station Launches New Food Hall on Monday

Outside Zeppelin Station's new market hall.
Outside Zeppelin Station's new market hall. Courtesy Zeppelin Station
Online shopping is killing an American classic: the shopping mall. And without big retail centers to draw the masses for conspicuous consumption, what will become of the accompanying food court? Fear not; Entrepreneurs have re-envisioned the fast-food agglomerations to suit current sensibilities. The modern food hall (or market hall, if you want to be even fancier) keeps the best parts of the food court — variety, convenience and social aspect — while ditching the national brands for homegrown eateries. And they're now freestanding, so you needn't enter through a big-box store or fight your way past bands of teenagers buying cheap sunglasses to grab a bite. Avanti Food & Beverage and Denver Central Market have capitalized on the model, while the Source and Stanley Marketplace have added boutique shops (for those who insist and just can't do virtual) as draws.

click to enlarge Zeppelin Station — lit up at night. - COURTESY ZEPPELIN STATION
Zeppelin Station — lit up at night.
Courtesy Zeppelin Station
And now comes Denver's latest market hall: Zeppelin Station, which officially opens on Monday, March 12 (although you can sneak in for soft openings this weekend). Zeppelin Station (3501 Wazee Street) is brought to you by the folks behind the Source (and the impending Source Hotel) and is located at the foot of the new pedestrian bridge spanning the railroad tracks that have long divided the RiNo neighborhood. With the 38th/Blake light-rail station just footsteps away, the new edifice also includes office space and design and fashion retailers. The food and beverage comes from ten separate vendors offering international tastes from both local and national chefs; an anchor restaurant will also be added this summer. Here's a rundown of what you'll find.

click to enlarge A light cocktail at Kiss + Ride. - MARK ANTONATION
A light cocktail at Kiss + Ride.
Mark Antonation
Kiss + Ride
Upon entering the hall, you'll find a wide-open space that serves as Denver's equivalent of a European terminal bar, where commuters can stop for a drink before heading on. The slate is intended to be inexpensive, refreshing and light. Garage doors open onto a patio, and vaulted ceilings make for a bright, airy experience. Look down at the floors for color-coded stripes that lead to other destinations within the building; it's like standing on a public-transportation map on a giant scale.

click to enlarge Upstairs at Big Trouble. - COURTESY ZEPPELIN STATION
Upstairs at Big Trouble.
Courtesy Zeppelin Station
Big Trouble
How do you know when you're in Big Trouble? Just ascend the sweeping wooden staircase until you see a sign that reads "You're in Big Trouble." This mezzanine-level bar is Kiss + Ride's more upscale counterpart, boasting an Asian-alley theme and some almost futuristic drink options. The highball, for example, is served from a Suntory Japanese whisky tower that dispenses perfectly chilled sparking water and whisky over a chunky, rectangular ice cube that's so clear it all but vanishes once submerged. Neon signs and a DJ booth render a vibe somewhere between a 1980s HBO soft-core flick and a vibrant Tokyo streetcorner at night.

click to enlarge The Comal team, including chef Silvia Hernandez (third from left). - MARK ANTONATION
The Comal team, including chef Silvia Hernandez (third from left).
Mark Antonation
All of the food vendors are on the main floor, and the first space — located adjacent to Kiss + Tell — is a kitchen counter called No Vacancy, which will swap out food concepts quarterly. The first tenant is Comal, a branch of Comal Heritage Food Incubator located just across the Platte River in the TAXI development. Comal is a nonprofit eatery (run by Focus Points Family Resource Center) dedicated to giving women from the surrounding Elyria-Swansea and Globeville neighborhoods training and opportunities to open their own food-service businesses. Silvia Hernandez was in the first training group when Comal opened in 2016, and she'll head the kitchen at this new outpost. Because of the organization's commitment to diversity, you'll find Mexican cuisine Tuesday through Thursday, Argentinian empanadas on Friday, and Syrian specialties (don't miss the hummus!) Saturday through Monday.

click to enlarge Bibimbap at Injoi. - MARK ANTONATION
Bibimbap at Injoi.
Mark Antonation
Injoi Korean Kitchen
A Korean-Southern mashup menu sounds like it could be a hot mess, but chef Bill Espiricueta (who's also opening Smok BBQ in the Source Hotel) makes it work — though the Korean fried chicken sandwich will be both hot and messy. After all, smoked brisket works pretty well in a bibimbop bowl (which also includes rice, housemade kimchi and a runny egg) and fried chicken is always a winner, whether from Kentucky or Korea. Espiricueta is an alum of Acorn and Oak at Fourteenth, so he knows his cooking, whether bulgogi, fried rice or noodle bowls.

click to enlarge The Volcano Bowl at Aloha Poke Co. - MARK ANTONATION
The Volcano Bowl at Aloha Poke Co.
Mark Antonation
Aloha Poke Co.
Hawaiian-style poke rode a wave of popularity in Denver last year, but this Chicago company has been doing it for a little longer and will now be serving glistening jewels of tuna and other seafood (or tofu) in several sizes and styles, with a big variety of toppings and sauces. If the options seem a little overwhelming, just go with the house Volcano bowl, which comes packed with seaweed, edamame, jalapeño, ginger and a generous dollop of colorful fish roe.

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Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.
Contact: Mark Antonation