Fruition, which opened last month in the former Somethin' Else space on Sixth Avenue, opted out of Denver Restaurant Week because owners Paul Attardi and Alex Seidel wisely decided that the crushing DRW scrum might be tough on such a new place.
Still, it's doing a respectable business this week. Though I was able to get a late reservation just two days ahead of my planned visit and my table was ready and waiting when I arrived, the place had two turns on the books and was doing an excellent walk-up business, too, with (I have to assume) a whole lot of procrastinators like me keeping the floor full and the staff jumping right up until closing time.
The red/gold beet carpaccio with goat cheese fritters was amazing. The butter-poached salmon was like a textbook example of French technique, smoky, sweet, decadent with butterfat and fish oil, and perfectly presented beneath its thorny crown of shaved and salted asparagus. The beet spaetzle? Not as good as I'd been led to believe, but coming along.
I felt the same way about some of the other dishes, but Fruition is young yet. Right now, it's like ten degrees shy of excellence, needing nothing more than a little nudge here and there to become the truly great restaurant it has the potential to be. -- Jason Sheehan
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.