Hana Matsuri serves sushi to the northern suburbs in tomorrow's review

Sushi Den and Sushi Sasa long ago deep-sixed the notion that good sushi doesn't exist in this landlocked state. These two formidable restaurants turn out exceptional dishes that rival those in any American city, seaside or not.

And if they can do it, so can others -- at least from a sourcing standpoint. I'm always amused when I walk into a nondescript strip mall in the suburbs and find a joint serving cuts of tuna, salmon and octopus that rival those available at the sexiest sushi restaurants in town -- but at a fraction of the price.

We included several of those spots on our list of Denver's ten best sushi restaurants. And the prospect of possibly landing another suburban sushi bar where I could net a superb seafood meal had me driving to to Westminster for this week's review. At Hana Matsuri, I ate my way through a massive board of sushi, chopsticking up traditional Japanese dishes as well as more creative fare dreamed up by the chef.

How was the food? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk