Iced coffee at Mali Thai Cuisine is a bitter disappointment -- is the food better?

For years, much of what was sold as coffee was so light, sweet and flavored, it had little relation to the actual drink. But now the trend is moving in the other direction, with craft baristas letting the inner bean shine through, pouring strong black coffee never to be sullied with the likes of half-and-half, much less skim.

But sometimes you want a sweeter cup, and on those occasions nothing fits the bill better than Thai iced coffee. Famously made with sweetened condensed milk, it can be as light and sweet as dessert -- and I always treat it as such. See also: - Photos: Mali Thai Cuisine opens in South Denver - Meatballs on salad might sound odd -- but iced coffee once was, too - Best New Coffeehouse 2013: Black Eye Coffee

At Mali Thai Cuisine, though, the Thai iced coffee comes topped with a wide layer of half-and-half. And while it was rich and sweet enough to count as coffee ice cream, it was still a disappointment.

After all, I can get a fine cup of iced coffee with half-and-half almost anywhere. But Thai iced coffee? That's a rarity in these parts.

Is the food at Mali more authentic? Find out tomorrow when my review of this cheerful, not-quite-year-old restaurant is posted on

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz