Word of Mouth

Reader: Will Call Is a Bar, Which Means It's Much More Fun Than a Restaurant


Industry will celebrate its first anniversary on Brighton Boulevard this week, and in addition to offices and communal spaces, the project features Will Call, a brand-new concept from the Little Pub group, which Gretchen Kurtz just reviewed. Much to the dismay of Rocko220:
So sorry for the unusual Westword over-reach on this place. It is a bar. It is not even fair to review it as a restaurant, despite the extended preamble. This is certainly NOT AT ALL the chef-driven bullshit that Westword typically likes to fawn over. I really think it is just a bar...and this critic seems to realize she is sitting in a BAR about halfway through her review.

I am a bar person, and I do not think I have weighed in on Westword in many ages (probably since the Wynkoop-buys-The-Cricket tragedy) ...and certainly never on a food critic page. I am NOT a food person, so take that for what you will. All of the "foodies" in Denver have made our town a total shit-show of places that feel the need to be some kind of San Francisco, farm-to-table copycats. I am just a basic beer and food guy. For example, I love (and still love) Benny's Mexican, which I am certain Gretchen hates. It's not cool. It's not "street tacos"...it has no "mixology." But I don't even think Will Call is trying to be Benny's. It is a really nice room with a really nice staff and some really good bar food. It is clearly not a restaurant.

I don't know Gretchen Kurtz and I am so glad I don't. She must be a fucking nightmare to go out with. I like be out with people who: a) know you need your fucking ID to drink in Denver and b) know how to just order stuff that is Buffalo flavored. Delicious, every time. "Mouthfeel"? Are you shitting me?!! How is the "mouthfeel" of a pizza roll after a few beers? Or some 7-Eleven nachos? It is fucking delicious. Why is a food critic even weighing in at this place? It is a bar, which Ms. Kurtz only seems to recognize when she realizes she is sitting in a room dominated by a big, fucking bar that feels "more like a saloon than a restaurant"...HELLO?!

As for Will Call. I have been here...three times now. Great bar. And it is a bar. If you walk in the door and feel any different, I ask you to weigh in here. So we should judge it as such. The food is more than adequate for a bar...actually quite tasty. I don't even know what an arepa is supposed to be, but they taste pretty damn good after a few beers...authentic or not. And the chicken skin bits are fucking delicious.

All you foodies reading this should go be a pain in the butt elsewhere and leave us bar folks to our bars. We are not nit-picky and that is why bars are so much more fun than restaurants. I like this place.
Have you been to Will Call? What do you think of the place? Of Gretchen's review?


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Patricia Calhoun co-founded Westword in 1977; she’s been the editor ever since. She’s a regular on the weekly CPT12 roundtable Colorado Inside Out, played a real journalist in John Sayles’s Silver City, once interviewed President Bill Clinton while wearing flip-flops, and has been honored with numerous national awards for her columns and feature-writing.
Contact: Patricia Calhoun