Review: Gozo is a hot spot in every sense of the word

Gretchen Kurtz July 3, 2014 4:00AM

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In early March, Gozo finally opened on South Broadway. It's an Italian-Spanish eatery -- not that you'd know it from the name. It doesn't serve aljotta (fish soup) or hobz biz-zejt (bread with tomatoes, anchovies, mint and cheese) or other staples from Gozo, an island in the Maltese archipelago. It doesn't even serve much Spanish food. The menu is predominantly Italian, with categories such as piccolo, pizze and contorni. But these dishes make sense when you check the map and see the island's proximity to Sicily. They make even more sense when you know that partner and front-of-house manager Frank Jolley IV and executive chef Nicholas Petrilli both spent years at acclaimed Italian restaurants in Napa. In fact, Gozo is as much a Napa-inspired eatery as an Italian, Spanish or Gozitan one. And everyone who loves good food of any kind will want to go to Gozo – now. Read more about it in this week's restaurant review, now posted on Cafe Society.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.

Contact: Gretchen Kurtz

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