^
Keep Westword Free
4

The charm of Bella Bistro lies in good vibes and good vegetables

Shelly Steinhaus opened Bella Bistro, 7702 Ralston Road, three years ago hoping to lure regulars who would dine with her several times a week. To accomplish that, her restaurant changes like a chameleon as the week progresses. On weeknights, it offers an enchanting culinary vacation to after-work diners who come in to relax over simpler entrees like pizza and pasta. On weekends, a vibrant, social crowd fills the space to overflowing for finer dining. Steinhaus and her sous chef, Chris Wray, accentuate the dichotomy by changing the menu twice a week, and a masterful understanding of seasonality prevails as a common theme. For the most part, the kitchen shows restraint in showcasing good ingredients, allowing produce to shine. Wedges of candy-like cantaloupe, slices of juicy tomato at the peak of ripeness and plump, earthy figs take turns in the spotlight, each lifting the corresponding dishes to new heights. The kitchen fares particularly well during the week, as weekend crowds are likely responsible for pushing the chefs to their capacity. Dessert, though, is consistently stellar, featuring summer fruit used just as skillfully in sweet courses as in savory.

Read more about my charming evenings at Bella Bistro here tomorrow, when the review will be posted along with a slide show.

I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.